IDEAS home Printed from https://ideas.repec.org/a/spr/epolin/v50y2023i4d10.1007_s40812-023-00284-y.html
   My bibliography  Save this article

Open innovation in Italian high-end fashion: an analysis of network tie formation by new ventures

Author

Listed:
  • Vincenzo Butticè

    (Politecnico di Milano School of Management)

  • Chiara Franzoni

    (Politecnico di Milano School of Management)

  • Mark Lorenzen

    (Department of Strategy and Innovation)

  • Cristina Rossi-Lamastra

    (Politecnico di Milano School of Management)

Abstract

Using a multiple case study of Italian high-end fashion, we analyze how new ventures pursue an open innovation by forming network ties to facilitate symbolic value propositions. We identify three strategies to form these ties: leverage of extant ties, Product exposure, and Entrepreneur exposure. Discussing the specificity of our empirical setting, we find that the identified strategies accommodate an industry context where market value is socially constructed and uncertainty is high. As a result, rather than being set by entrepreneurs, symbolic value propositions result from a mix of multiple diverse network ties. New high-end fashion ventures form these ties by applying strategies facilitating flexibility through open-ended search.

Suggested Citation

  • Vincenzo Butticè & Chiara Franzoni & Mark Lorenzen & Cristina Rossi-Lamastra, 2023. "Open innovation in Italian high-end fashion: an analysis of network tie formation by new ventures," Economia e Politica Industriale: Journal of Industrial and Business Economics, Springer;Associazione Amici di Economia e Politica Industriale, vol. 50(4), pages 849-875, December.
  • Handle: RePEc:spr:epolin:v:50:y:2023:i:4:d:10.1007_s40812-023-00284-y
    DOI: 10.1007/s40812-023-00284-y
    as

    Download full text from publisher

    File URL: http://link.springer.com/10.1007/s40812-023-00284-y
    File Function: Abstract
    Download Restriction: Access to the full text of the articles in this series is restricted.

    File URL: https://libkey.io/10.1007/s40812-023-00284-y?utm_source=ideas
    LibKey link: if access is restricted and if your library uses this service, LibKey will redirect you to where you can use your library subscription to access this item
    ---><---

    As the access to this document is restricted, you may want to search for a different version of it.

    References listed on IDEAS

    as
    1. Bart Clarysse & Mike Wright & Els Van de Velde, 2011. "Entrepreneurial Origin, Technological Knowledge, and the Growth of Spin‐Off Companies," Journal of Management Studies, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 48, pages 1420-1442, September.
    2. Sarah L. Jack, 2005. "The Role, Use and Activation of Strong and Weak Network Ties: A Qualitative Analysis," Journal of Management Studies, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 42(6), pages 1233-1259, September.
    3. Arent Greve & Janet W. Salaff, 2003. "Social Networks and Entrepreneurship," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 28(1), pages 1-22, January.
    4. Jason Potts & Stuart Cunningham & John Hartley & Paul Ormerod, 2008. "Social network markets: a new definition of the creative industries," Journal of Cultural Economics, Springer;The Association for Cultural Economics International, vol. 32(3), pages 167-185, September.
    5. Hsu, David H., 2007. "Experienced entrepreneurial founders, organizational capital, and venture capital funding," Research Policy, Elsevier, vol. 36(5), pages 722-741, June.
    6. Sharique Hasan & Rembrand Koning, 2019. "Prior ties and the limits of peer effects on startup team performance," Strategic Management Journal, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 40(9), pages 1394-1416, September.
    7. Paul D Ellis, 2011. "Social ties and international entrepreneurship: Opportunities and constraints affecting firm internationalization," Journal of International Business Studies, Palgrave Macmillan;Academy of International Business, vol. 42(1), pages 99-127, January.
    8. Pesendorfer, Wolfgang, 1995. "Design Innovation and Fashion Cycles," American Economic Review, American Economic Association, vol. 85(4), pages 771-792, September.
    9. Balagopal Vissa, 2012. "Agency in Action: Entrepreneurs' Networking Style and Initiation of Economic Exchange," Organization Science, INFORMS, vol. 23(2), pages 492-510, April.
    10. Fabio Bertoni & Diego d'Adda & Luca Grilli, 2019. "Self-selection of entrepreneurial firms in thin venture capital markets : Theory and empirical evidence," Post-Print hal-02312106, HAL.
    11. Scott Shane & Daniel Cable, 2002. "Network Ties, Reputation, and the Financing of New Ventures," Management Science, INFORMS, vol. 48(3), pages 364-381, March.
    12. Scott L. Newbert & Erno T. Tornikoski, 2013. "Resource Acquisition in the Emergence Phase: Considering the Effects of Embeddedness and Resource Dependence," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 37(2), pages 249-280, March.
    13. Sara Jonsson & Jessica Lindbergh, 2013. "The Development of Social Capital and Financing of Entrepreneurial Firms: From Financial Bootstrapping to Bank Funding," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 37(4), pages 661-686, July.
    14. Witt, Ulrich, 2010. "Symbolic consumption and the social construction of product characteristics," Structural Change and Economic Dynamics, Elsevier, vol. 21(1), pages 17-25, March.
    15. Elfring, Tom & Hulsink, Willem, 2003. "Networks in Entrepreneurship: The Case of High-Technology Firms," Small Business Economics, Springer, vol. 21(4), pages 409-422, December.
    16. Yen Tran, 2010. "Generating Stylistic Innovation: A Process Perspective," Industry and Innovation, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 17(2), pages 131-161.
    17. George P. Huber & Danial J. Power, 1985. "Retrospective reports of strategic‐level managers: Guidelines for increasing their accuracy," Strategic Management Journal, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 6(2), pages 171-180, April.
    18. Baron, Robert A. & Markman, Gideon D., 2003. "Beyond social capital: the role of entrepreneurs' social competence in their financial success," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 18(1), pages 41-60, January.
    19. Cappetta, Rossella & Cillo, Paola & Ponti, Anna, 2006. "Convergent designs in fine fashion: An evolutionary model for stylistic innovation," Research Policy, Elsevier, vol. 35(9), pages 1273-1290, November.
    20. Donna Marie De Carolis & Patrick Saparito, 2006. "Social Capital, Cognition, and Entrepreneurial Opportunities: A Theoretical Framework," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 30(1), pages 41-56, January.
    21. Corbett, Andrew C., 2007. "Learning asymmetries and the discovery of entrepreneurial opportunities," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 22(1), pages 97-118, January.
    22. Jack, Sarah L. & Anderson, Alistair R., 2002. "The effects of embeddedness on the entrepreneurial process," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 17(5), pages 467-487, September.
    23. Wadhwa, Anu & Phelps, Corey & Kotha, Suresh, 2016. "Corporate venture capital portfolios and firm innovation," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 31(1), pages 95-112.
    Full references (including those not matched with items on IDEAS)

    Most related items

    These are the items that most often cite the same works as this one and are cited by the same works as this one.
    1. Jack, Sarah L., 2010. "Approaches to studying networks: Implications and outcomes," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 25(1), pages 120-137, January.
    2. Eric Gedajlovic & Benson Honig & Curt B. Moore & G. Tyge Payne & Mike Wright, 2013. "Social Capital and Entrepreneurship: A Schema and Research Agenda," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 37(3), pages 455-478, May.
    3. Katharina Scheidgen & Anna Brattström, 2023. "Berlin is Hotter Than Silicon Valley! How Networking Temperature Shapes Entrepreneurs’ Networking Across Social Contexts," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 47(6), pages 2233-2262, November.
    4. Stam, Wouter & Arzlanian, Souren & Elfring, Tom, 2014. "Social capital of entrepreneurs and small firm performance: A meta-analysis of contextual and methodological moderators," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 29(1), pages 152-173.
    5. Butticè, Vincenzo & Croce, Annalisa & Ughetto, Elisa, 2021. "Network dynamics in business angel group investment decisions," Journal of Corporate Finance, Elsevier, vol. 66(C).
    6. Salih Zeki Ozdemir & Peter Moran & Xing Zhong & Martin J. Bliemel, 2016. "Reaching and Acquiring Valuable Resources: The Entrepreneur's Use of Brokerage, Cohesion, and Embeddedness," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 40(1), pages 49-79, January.
    7. Jean–Luc Arregle & Bat Batjargal & Michael A. Hitt & Justin W. Webb & Toyah Miller & Anne S. Tsui, 2015. "Family Ties in Entrepreneurs’ Social Networks and New Venture Growth," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 39(2), pages 313-344, March.
    8. Erik Lundmark & Anna Krzeminska & Dean A. Shepherd, 2019. "Images of Entrepreneurship: Exploring Root Metaphors and Expanding Upon Them," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 43(1), pages 138-170, January.
    9. Li, Haiyan, 2020. "Role of overseas ethnic and non-ethnic ties and firm activity in the home country in the internationalization of returnee entrepreneurial firms," Journal of International Management, Elsevier, vol. 26(1).
    10. Smith, Claudia & Smith, J. Brock & Shaw, Eleanor, 2017. "Embracing digital networks: Entrepreneurs' social capital online," Journal of Business Venturing, Elsevier, vol. 32(1), pages 18-34.
    11. Smith, Claudia G. & Smith, J. Brock, 2021. "Founders' uses of digital networks for resource acquisition: Extending network theory online," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 125(C), pages 466-482.
    12. Mariëtte Kaandorp & Elco van Burg & Tomas Karlsson, 2020. "Initial Networking Processes of Student Entrepreneurs: The Role of Action and Evaluation," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 44(3), pages 527-556, May.
    13. Sullivan, Diane M. & Marvel, Matthew R. & Wolfe, Marcus T., 2021. "With a little help from my friends? How learning activities and network ties impact performance for high tech startups in incubators," Technovation, Elsevier, vol. 101(C).
    14. Thomas Ulmer & Ulrich Pape, 2022. "Streamliners, Switchmen and Bridge Builders: About the Mechanisms and Uniqueness of Accelerator Programs," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 14(23), pages 1-25, November.
    15. Patricia Jardim Da Palma & Miguel Pereira Lopes & Telmo Ferreira Alves, 2018. "Entrepreneurship as a Calling: A Pilot Study with Aspiring Entrepreneurs," Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation in Emerging Economies, Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India, vol. 27(2), pages 277-300, September.
    16. Susanna Slotte–Kock & Nicole Coviello, 2010. "Entrepreneurship Research on Network Processes: A Review and Ways Forward," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 34(1), pages 31-57, January.
    17. Pruthi, Sarika, 2014. "Social ties and venture creation by returnee entrepreneurs," International Business Review, Elsevier, vol. 23(6), pages 1139-1152.
    18. Gliga, Gabriela & Evers, Natasha, 2023. "Marketing capability development through networking – An entrepreneurial marketing perspective," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 156(C).
    19. Diane M. Sullivan & Cameron M. Ford, 2014. "How Entrepreneurs use Networks to Address Changing Resource Requirements during Early Venture Development," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 38(3), pages 551-574, May.
    20. Sara Jonsson & Jessica Lindbergh, 2013. "The Development of Social Capital and Financing of Entrepreneurial Firms: From Financial Bootstrapping to Bank Funding," Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, , vol. 37(4), pages 661-686, July.

    More about this item

    Keywords

    Open innovation; Formation of network ties; Symbolic value proposition; High end fashion industry; Creative industries;
    All these keywords.

    JEL classification:

    • L26 - Industrial Organization - - Firm Objectives, Organization, and Behavior - - - Entrepreneurship
    • O36 - Economic Development, Innovation, Technological Change, and Growth - - Innovation; Research and Development; Technological Change; Intellectual Property Rights - - - Open Innovation

    Statistics

    Access and download statistics

    Corrections

    All material on this site has been provided by the respective publishers and authors. You can help correct errors and omissions. When requesting a correction, please mention this item's handle: RePEc:spr:epolin:v:50:y:2023:i:4:d:10.1007_s40812-023-00284-y. See general information about how to correct material in RePEc.

    If you have authored this item and are not yet registered with RePEc, we encourage you to do it here. This allows to link your profile to this item. It also allows you to accept potential citations to this item that we are uncertain about.

    If CitEc recognized a bibliographic reference but did not link an item in RePEc to it, you can help with this form .

    If you know of missing items citing this one, you can help us creating those links by adding the relevant references in the same way as above, for each refering item. If you are a registered author of this item, you may also want to check the "citations" tab in your RePEc Author Service profile, as there may be some citations waiting for confirmation.

    For technical questions regarding this item, or to correct its authors, title, abstract, bibliographic or download information, contact: Sonal Shukla or Springer Nature Abstracting and Indexing (email available below). General contact details of provider: http://www.springer.com .

    Please note that corrections may take a couple of weeks to filter through the various RePEc services.

    IDEAS is a RePEc service. RePEc uses bibliographic data supplied by the respective publishers.