What does it take to buy in brick-and-mortar secondhand fashion stores? A non-user segmentation with recommendations considering current secondhand retail trends

Secondhand fashion retail is a critical driver of the global fashion industry's pressing sustainability transition, while also offering substantial economic market potential. Yet, a key growth segment has been largely overlooked: Non-users and their barriers to brick-and-mortar secondhand fashion retail. This paper aims to support the fashion industry in effectively segmenting and targeting non-user groups, thereby considering recent trends in the sector. Drawing on in-depth semi-structured interviews and an exploratory follow-up online survey among 27 non-users of brick-and-mortar secondhand retail, a novel non-user segmentation is proposed, which indicates distinct barriers of four non-user groups (i.e., unaware supporters, disillusioned supporters, skeptic hedonists, and skeptic outsiders). Moreover, the paper develops recommendations and store concepts for specific non-user groups and assesses the appeal of recent retail trends (e.g., luxury secondhand, kilo stores, mixed assortments) in targeting non-user groups. This study makes several contributions to the literature on diffusion of innovation, consumer adoption, and customer segmentation both within and beyond the context of secondhand retailing. Specifically, it provides novel insight into relevant non-user groups, enabling managers to identify and target non-user groups, and advances future research avenues.