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A Delphi-Régnier Study Addressing the Challenges of Textile Recycling in Europe for the Fashion and Apparel Industry

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  • Joséphine Riemens

    (LAMIH-UMR CNRS 8201, Arts et Métiers Sciences et Technologies, Institute of Technology, 75013 Paris, France
    Institut Français de la Mode, Sustainability IFM-Kering Chair, 75013 Paris, France
    Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), 75008 Paris, France)

  • Andrée-Anne Lemieux

    (Institut Français de la Mode, Sustainability IFM-Kering Chair, 75013 Paris, France)

  • Samir Lamouri

    (LAMIH-UMR CNRS 8201, Arts et Métiers Sciences et Technologies, Institute of Technology, 75013 Paris, France)

  • Léonore Garnier

    (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), 75008 Paris, France)

Abstract

The increasing resource pressure and the expanding amount of textile waste have been rising recycling as a clear priority for the fashion and apparel industry. However, textile recycling remains limited and is therefore a targeted issue in the forthcoming EU policies. As the fashion industry is embedded in complex value chains, enhancing textile recycling entails a comprehensive understanding of the existing challenges. Yet, the literature review suggests only limited empirical studies in the sector, and a dedicated state-of-the-art is still lacking. Filling this gap, a Delphi study was conducted supplemented by the Regnier’s Abacus technique. Through an iterative, anonymous, and controlled feedback process, the obstacles collected from the extant literature were collectively discussed with a representative panel of 28 experts, compared to the situation in Europe. After two rounds, the lack of eco-design practices, the absence of incentive policies, and the lack of available and accurate information on the product components emerged as the most consensual statements. Linking theory to practice, this paper aims to improve consistency in the understanding of the current state of textile recycling in Europe, while providing an encompassing outline of the current experts’ opinion on the priority challenges for the sector.

Suggested Citation

  • Joséphine Riemens & Andrée-Anne Lemieux & Samir Lamouri & Léonore Garnier, 2021. "A Delphi-Régnier Study Addressing the Challenges of Textile Recycling in Europe for the Fashion and Apparel Industry," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 13(21), pages 1-30, October.
    • Handle: RePEc:gam:jsusta:v:13:y:2021:i:21:p:11700-:d:662678
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. Paulien Harmsen & Michiel Scheffer & Harriette Bos, 2021. "Textiles for Circular Fashion: The Logic behind Recycling Options," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 13(17), pages 1-17, August.
    2. Gereffi, Gary & Frederick, Stacey, 2010. "The global apparel value chain, trade and the crisis : challenges and opportunities for developing countries," Policy Research Working Paper Series 5281, The World Bank.
    3. Ashton, Robert H., 1986. "Combining the judgments of experts: How many and which ones?," Organizational Behavior and Human Decision Processes, Elsevier, vol. 38(3), pages 405-414, December.
    4. Norman Dalkey & Olaf Helmer, 1963. "An Experimental Application of the DELPHI Method to the Use of Experts," Management Science, INFORMS, vol. 9(3), pages 458-467, April.
    5. Idiano D’Adamo & Gianluca Lupi, 2021. "Sustainability and Resilience after COVID-19: A Circular Premium in the Fashion Industry," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 13(4), pages 1-5, February.
    6. Tarun Kumar Agrawal & Rudrajeet Pal, 2019. "Traceability in Textile and Clothing Supply Chains: Classifying Implementation Factors and Information Sets via Delphi Study," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 11(6), pages 1-18, March.
    7. Mariachiara Colucci & Alessandra Vecchi, 2021. "Close the loop: Evidence on the implementation of the circular economy from the Italian fashion industry," Business Strategy and the Environment, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 30(2), pages 856-873, February.
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    Cited by:

    1. Jonathan Brodeur & Robert Pellerin & Isabelle Deschamps, 2022. "Operationalization of Critical Success Factors to Manage the Industry 4.0 Transformation of Manufacturing SMEs," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 14(14), pages 1-35, July.
    2. Birgit Stubbe & Stijn Van Vrekhem & Sofie Huysman & Rémi G. Tilkin & Isabel De Schrijver & Myriam Vanneste, 2024. "White Paper on Textile Fibre Recycling Technologies," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 16(2), pages 1-24, January.

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