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Tradition and diversity jeopardised by food safety regulations? The Serrano Cheese case, Campos de Cima da Serra region, Brazil

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  • da Cruz, Fabiana Thomé
  • Menasche, Renata

Abstract

Although some authors and policymakers have been considering the valorisation of traditional food as a strategy to revitalise rural areas, the commercialisation of such foods in formal markets demands strict compliance with food safety regulations. This is particularly so in relation to building structures and equipment. However, many of these requirements, based on an expectation of zero microbiological contamination, represent a big challenge to traditional food production and commercialisation; they often put in jeopardy the very characteristics that make these foods unique, diverse and desirable. Taking this context into account, how would it be possible to overcome the challenges that food safety regulations represent to the valorisation and maintenance of the individuality and diversity of traditional and artisanal food? This paper, inspired by the Cultural Theory of risk, considers the case of traditional cheeses, particularly those made from raw milk and using wooden surfaces, moulds and utensils, which are commonly used in many Latin American countries. The aim is to amplify the debate related to traditional food valorisation, particularly regarding artisanal cheeses. To do this, we consider the case of Serrano Cheese, an artisanal cheese made from unpasteurised milk in Campos de Cima da Serra, a region located in the southernmost state of Brazil. A field study inspired by the ethnographic method was carried out in this region. The data collected indicate that besides adapting production and expertise to food safety regulations, the valorisation of traditional food depends firstly on understanding the risk perceptions related to these products and secondly on recognising and legitimating traditional forms of knowledge.

Suggested Citation

  • da Cruz, Fabiana Thomé & Menasche, Renata, 2014. "Tradition and diversity jeopardised by food safety regulations? The Serrano Cheese case, Campos de Cima da Serra region, Brazil," Food Policy, Elsevier, vol. 45(C), pages 116-124.
    • Handle: RePEc:eee:jfpoli:v:45:y:2014:i:c:p:116-124
    DOI: 10.1016/j.foodpol.2013.04.014
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. Jonathan Murdoch & Terry Marsden & Jo Banks, 2000. "Quality, Nature, and Embeddedness: Some Theoretical Considerations in the Context of the Food Sector," Economic Geography, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 76(2), pages 107-125, April.
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    Cited by:

    1. Mercado, Geovana & Nico Hjortsø, Carsten, 2023. "Explaining the development policy implementation gap: A case of a failed food sovereignty policy in Bolivia," World Development, Elsevier, vol. 166(C).
    2. Wilson, Norbert L.W. & Worosz, Michelle R., 2014. "Zero tolerance rules in food safety and quality," Food Policy, Elsevier, vol. 45(C), pages 112-115.
    3. Geovana Mercado & Carsten Nico Hjortsø & Benson Honig, 2018. "Decoupling from international food safety standards: how small-scale indigenous farmers cope with conflicting institutions to ensure market participation," Agriculture and Human Values, Springer;The Agriculture, Food, & Human Values Society (AFHVS), vol. 35(3), pages 651-669, September.
    4. Julia M. L. Laforge & Colin R. Anderson & Stéphane M. McLachlan, 2017. "Governments, grassroots, and the struggle for local food systems: containing, coopting, contesting and collaborating," Agriculture and Human Values, Springer;The Agriculture, Food, & Human Values Society (AFHVS), vol. 34(3), pages 663-681, September.
    5. Jianhua Wang & Hanyu Diao & Lulu Tou, 2019. "Research on the Influence Mechanism of Rational Consumers’ Food Safety Supervision Satisfaction," IJERPH, MDPI, vol. 16(5), pages 1-16, March.
    6. Boncinelli, Fabio & Contino, Caterina & Romano, Caterina & Scozzafava, Gabriele & Casini, Leonardo, 2016. "Territory, environment, and healthiness in traditional food choices: insights into consumer heterogeneity," International Food and Agribusiness Management Review, International Food and Agribusiness Management Association, vol. 20(1), October.
    7. Hongfeng Zhang & Chengyun Sun & Lu Huang & Hongyun Si, 2021. "Does Government Intervention Ensure Food Safety? Evidence from China," IJERPH, MDPI, vol. 18(7), pages 1-22, March.

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