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Asymmetrical power relations and upgrading among suppliers of global clothing brands: Hugo Boss in Turkey

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  • Nebahat Tokatli

Abstract

When a relatively powerless clothing supplier encroaches on the core competence of its dominant network partner and emerges as a competitor in its own right, this calls for detailed documentation and explanation. In this paper, we provide such an explanation through inquiry into the Turkish firm Sarar. A 13-year manufacturing contractor of Hugo Boss, it withdrew from its partnership with the German lead firm in 1998 and has since created its own brands of men's suits that are now sold at home and abroad. After the withdrawal, Hugo Boss established its own manufacturing facilities in Turkey. Here we investigate the relevancy of the national origin of the lead firm Hugo Boss and of the broader institutional and market setting of the post-1980 Turkey in which the relationship between the two firms was embedded. The findings are in some tension with the organizational frameworks that are frequently used to describe the clothing industry. Copyright 2007, Oxford University Press.

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  • Nebahat Tokatli, 2007. "Asymmetrical power relations and upgrading among suppliers of global clothing brands: Hugo Boss in Turkey," Journal of Economic Geography, Oxford University Press, vol. 7(1), pages 67-92, January.
    • Handle: RePEc:oup:jecgeo:v:7:y:2007:i:1:p:67-92
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    File URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10.1093/jeg/lbl017
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    Cited by:

    1. Cédric Durand & Neil Wrigley, 2009. "Institutional and Economic Determinants of Transnational Retailer Expansion and Performance: A Comparative Analysis of Wal-Mart and Carrefour," Environment and Planning A, , vol. 41(7), pages 1534-1555, July.
    2. Cagri Talay & Volkan Alptekin, 2016. "Types of Asymmetries in Exporter-Importer Relationships and Alignment Behaviour," International Journal of Marketing Studies, Canadian Center of Science and Education, vol. 8(3), pages 76-88, June.
    3. José A. Belso-Martínez, 2015. "Resources, Governance, and Knowledge Transfer in Spanish Footwear Clusters," International Regional Science Review, , vol. 38(2), pages 202-231, April.
    4. He, Shaowei & Khan, Zaheer & Shenkar, Oded, 2018. "Subsidiary capability upgrading under emerging market acquirers," Journal of World Business, Elsevier, vol. 53(2), pages 248-262.
    5. Belaya, Vera & Hanf, Jon Henrich, 2011. "Power and Supply Chain Management - Insights from Russia," 51st Annual Conference, Halle, Germany, September 28-30, 2011 114483, German Association of Agricultural Economists (GEWISOLA).
    6. Chuc Dinh Nguyen & Anh Ngoc Nguyen & Trang Ha Nguyen & Minh Ngoc Nguyen, 2017. "Host-site institutions, regional production linkages and technological upgrading: a study of automotive firms in vietnam," Asia Pacific Business Review, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 23(3), pages 438-453, May.
    7. Pipkin, Seth & Fuentes, Alberto, 2017. "Spurred to Upgrade: A Review of Triggers and Consequences of Industrial Upgrading in the Global Value Chain Literature," World Development, Elsevier, vol. 98(C), pages 536-554.
    8. John Pickles, 2012. "South African horticulture: opportunities and challenges for economic and social upgrading in value chains," Global Development Institute Working Paper Series ctg-2012-13, GDI, The University of Manchester.
    9. Ponte, Stefano & Kelling, Ingrid & Jespersen, Karen Sau & Kruijssen, Froukje, 2014. "The Blue Revolution in Asia: Upgrading and Governance in Aquaculture Value Chains," World Development, Elsevier, vol. 64(C), pages 52-64.
    10. Choksy, Umair Shafi & Ayaz, Muhammad & Al-Tabbaa, Omar & Parast, Mahour, 2022. "Supplier resilience under the COVID-19 crisis in apparel global value chain (GVC): The role of GVC governance and supplier’s upgrading," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 150(C), pages 249-267.
    11. Jon Henrich Hanf & Erik Schweickert, 2012. "Power Play in the German Wine Business: Are German Wine Co-operatives able to Use their Power to manage their Business Relationships?," Journal of Economics and Behavioral Studies, AMH International, vol. 4(4), pages 227-238.
    12. Belaya, V. & Hanf, J.H., 2012. "Power and Supply Chain Management – Insights from Russia," Proceedings “Schriften der Gesellschaft für Wirtschafts- und Sozialwissenschaften des Landbaues e.V.”, German Association of Agricultural Economists (GEWISOLA), vol. 47, March.
    13. Nebahat Tokatli & Ömür Kızılgün & Jinsook Erin Cho, 2011. "The Clothing Industry in Istanbul in the Era of Globalisation and Fast Fashion," Urban Studies, Urban Studies Journal Limited, vol. 48(6), pages 1201-1215, May.
    14. Nebahat Tokatli & Ömür Kızılgün, 2009. "From Manufacturing Garments for Ready-to-Wear to Designing Collections for Fast Fashion: Evidence from Turkey," Environment and Planning A, , vol. 41(1), pages 146-162, January.
    15. Ghosh, R.K. & Eriksson, M. & Istamov, A., 2018. "Food waste due to coercive power in agri-food chains: Evidence from Sweden," 2018 Conference, July 28-August 2, 2018, Vancouver, British Columbia 277496, International Association of Agricultural Economists.
    16. Yi Liu & Yutian Liang & Shiping Ma & Kaixuan Huang, 2017. "Divergent Developmental Trajectories and Strategic Coupling in the Pearl River Delta: Where Is a Sustainable Way of Regional Economic Growth?," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 9(10), pages 1-15, October.
    17. Magnani, Giovanna & Zucchella, Antonella & Strange, Roger, 2019. "The dynamics of outsourcing relationships in global value chains: Perspectives from MNEs and their suppliers," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 103(C), pages 581-595.
    18. Ulrich Ermann, 2011. "Consumer Capitalism and Brand Fetishism: The Case of Fashion Brands in Bulgaria," Chapters, in: Andy Pike (ed.), Brands and Branding Geographies, chapter 7, Edward Elgar Publishing.

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