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Following the Trace in Fashion: From Zhivago Look to Slavic Core

In: Fashion Communication in the Digital Age

Author

Listed:
  • Olga Karamalak

    (HSE University)

  • Ksenia Vertlib

    (HSE University)

Abstract

Fashion is closely interconnected with traditional and digital media and the latter is widely known for setting and dissemination trends and making them viral. For example, TikTok set a trend for fur which climaxed in the winter 2023 and will probably stay in fashion longer with posts hashtagged #slaviccore, #slavicgirl, #slavicgirlcore, #slavicbimbo, or #slavicbimbogirl, where women promote the style of being dressed in furs. This cultural trend referring to Slavic people and the nostalgia for the 1990s and early 2000s is worth studying and discussing from semiotic and historical perspectives. An earlier boost in the popularity of fur in the West, initiated by the media, can be witnessed with the US release of Dоctor Zhivago in 1965. The hashtag #zhivagolook is still circulating on Instagram. This article describes these two cases and interprets them referring to Derrida’s concept of “trace” and Schoenberg’s concept of “developing variation” based on visual content analysis. We conclude that the current trend can be considered as a fashion reiteration with a recognizable trace, which is varied and thematically regenerated.

Suggested Citation

  • Olga Karamalak & Ksenia Vertlib, 2026. "Following the Trace in Fashion: From Zhivago Look to Slavic Core," Springer Proceedings in Business and Economics, in: Paula von Wachenfeldt & Lorenzo Cantoni & Nadzeya Sabatini & Teresa Sádaba (ed.), Fashion Communication in the Digital Age, pages 3-14, Springer.
    • Handle: RePEc:spr:prbchp:978-3-031-99481-4_1
    DOI: 10.1007/978-3-031-99481-4_1
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