A Study on the Origin and Evolution of Shape and Structure of ‘Gui-Yi’ in Ancient China

Most of the existing studies on Gui-Yi, which is a kind of ancient women’s dress of China, are barely about the interpretation of Xian (ie. a long ribbon made of silk) and Shao (ie. a hanging fabric of cloth, shaped like a swallow tail, tied to the waist) of Gui-Yi, on whose origin, development and evolution of the shape and structure there are few discussions. Based upon summarizing the literature, this paper points out that Gui-Yi in Han Dynasty was originated from a relic of San-di (ie. three kinds of ceremonial dress worn by queens in The Rites of Zhou Dynasty-a classical book in ancient China on the bureaucratic establishment system of Zhou Dynasty and the system of states in Warring States Period). In the paper, Gui-Yi is divided into two kinds according to images in archaeological studies, namely, the ‘Gui-Yi in one-piece system’ (‘one-piece system’ is Chinese robe) and ‘Gui-Yi in separate system’ (‘separate system’ is a kind of suit that consists of blouses and skirts). The former was popular in Han Dynasty, and the latter was popular in Wei &Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties. The change of the shape and structure of Gui-Yi conforms to the historical trend that the ‘Gui-Yi in one-piece system’ entered a recession in the late Eastern Han Dynasty and the ‘Gui-Yi in separate system’ became a popular mainstream in Wei &Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties. In addition, the paper points out female images wearing Gui-Yi in Gu Kaizhi's paintings influenced the expression of Gui-Yi image of Wei & Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, and Gui-Yi were gradually brought into immortal statues during painters’ artistic processing of that time.