Consumption and Gender under Late Socialism

"In the Soviet Union, as elsewhere, consumption was a gendered issue. As in the West, women were seen as particularly prone to acquisitive urges and vulnerable to the dictates of fashion. These issues became especially prominent in the post-Stalin period when Soviet citizens, just like their counterparts in postwar Western societies, experienced major growth in living standards. However, beyond the apparent similarities with the West, the relationship between gender and consumption under late socialism had important peculiarities. This paper discusses some of these peculiarities with reference to the Brezhnev period, 1964-1985, when Soviet society experienced its own consumer revolution. First there is the role of gender in the acquisition of domestic appliances. In the Khrushchev years (1953-1964), household gadgets had been hailed as a way of liberating women from domestic work and giving them time for public involvement and political education. The modern path to emancipation had been seen not in changing social perceptions and roles, but in changing kitchen routines. Under Brezhnev, however, this ideological tool began to malfunction on various levels. As a result of propaganda and production efforts, female shoppers of the late 1960s, 1970s and 1980s were becoming expert consumers. But just as they grew more demanding the state grew increasingly unable to match their expectations with the output of electrical goods. This resulted in shifts in public discourse not only about the role of machines but also with regard to domestic roles. Second, the Brezhnev era saw the majority of women in employment with personal incomes to spend. Not only did women have expertise in acquiring household gadgets, but also their incomes now gave them more financial autonomy as buyers and more agency in deciding what to buy for themselves and for the household. Furthermore, they were not only consumers but also producers of consumer goods. Thirdly, the peculiarities of the Soviet economic system produced distinctive results for another traditionally gendered commodity – clothes. Late socialist trade regularly failed to offer appealing garments to urban professionals, who grew increasingly sophisticated in their demands and got their fashion ideas not from state retailers but from foreign films and magazines. They turned to state or private tailors, the black market, or made their own clothes. Consumers, and not the state or its fashion experts, came to drive popular fashion in the late Soviet Union. Sartorial consumption became a field of negotiation between citizens and the state. At the same time, however, gender became less important here. Not just women but young people, without gender specification, came to be identified as a group primarily and actively interested in buying clothes. New styles were less gender-specific, and sources demonstrate that clothes emerged as an important social issue for both boys and girls. These concurrent processes – the transformation of women into knowledgeable and autonomous consumers, especially of such popular everyday symbols of modernity as electric durables, and the tendency of age to replace gender as the main differentiating factor in the traditionally gendered field of clothes consumption – form an important part of the story of Soviet society’s modernization."