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Exporting out of China or out of Africa? Automation versus relocation in the global clothing industry

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  • Altenburg, Tilman
  • Chen, Xiao
  • Lütkenhorst, Wilfried
  • Staritz, Cornelia
  • Whitfield, Lindsay

Abstract

The Discussion Paper examines the opportunities that the rising industrial wages in China will bring for Africa. China has been the industrial workbench of the global economy for decades. However, its competitive advantages are waning, particularly for labour-intensive assembly activities in the clothing, shoe, electronics and toy industries. The Chinese government estimates that up to 81 million low-cost industrial jobs are at risk of relocation to other countries - unless China can keep the companies in the country through automation. Against this background, three complementary studies were carried out. The first examines where the automation technology for clothing and footwear production stands today; the second, how clothing companies in China deal with the cost pressure: to what extent they automate, relocate within China or abroad and how great is the interest in Africa as a production location. The third part is devoted to Africa's competitiveness in clothing assemly, with empirical findings from Ethiopia and Madagascar. The Discussion Paper shows that the manufacture of clothing can already be robotized today, but that for sewing, robotization will probably remain more expensive than manual labor in the next 15-20 years. China's companies are investing heavily in the automation of all other production processes and at the same time shifting production to neighbouring Asian countries. In Africa, only Ethiopia is currently competitive in the manufacture of clothing, and here too there are significant institutional difficulties in absorbing large amounts of direct investment.

Suggested Citation

  • Altenburg, Tilman & Chen, Xiao & Lütkenhorst, Wilfried & Staritz, Cornelia & Whitfield, Lindsay, 2020. "Exporting out of China or out of Africa? Automation versus relocation in the global clothing industry," IDOS Discussion Papers 1/2020, German Institute of Development and Sustainability (IDOS).
  • Handle: RePEc:zbw:diedps:12020
    DOI: 10.23661/dp1.2020
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    2. Melia, Elvis, 2020. "African jobs in the digital era: Export options with a focus on online labour," IDOS Discussion Papers 3/2020, German Institute of Development and Sustainability (IDOS).
    3. Fernanda BÁRCIA DE MATTOS & Jeff EISENBRAUN & David KUCERA & Arianna ROSSI, 2021. "Disruption in the apparel industry? Automation, employment and reshoring," International Labour Review, International Labour Organization, vol. 160(4), pages 519-536, December.
    4. Castañeda-Navarrete, Jennifer & Hauge, Jostein & López-Gómez, Carlos, 2021. "COVID-19’s impacts on global value chains, as seen in the apparel industry," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 112527, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    5. Lindsay Whitfield & Cornelia Staritz & Mike Morris, 2020. "Global Value Chains, Industrial Policy and Economic Upgrading in Ethiopia's Apparel Sector," Development and Change, International Institute of Social Studies, vol. 51(4), pages 1018-1043, July.
    6. Elke Beyer & Lucas-Andrés Elsner & Anke Hagemann & Philipp Misselwitz, 2021. "Industrial Infrastructure: Translocal Planning for Global Production in Ethiopia and Argentina," Urban Planning, Cogitatio Press, vol. 6(3), pages 444-463.
    7. Auktor, Georgeta Vidican, 2022. "The opportunities and challenges of Industry 4.0 for industrial development: A case study of Morocco's automotive and garment sectors," IDOS Discussion Papers 2/2022, German Institute of Development and Sustainability (IDOS).

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