Large and Medium-Sized Polish Fashion Firms and Their Strategies in the Context of Global Sustainability Trends in the Fashion Market

Until the return to the market economy in the nineteen-nineties, Polish clothing firms were not overly concerned with ecological and ethical issues, although they often also did not create certain problems inherent to their capitalist counterparts (overproduction, encouraging overconsumption, ethical issues linked with offshoring). Since then, particularly in the last two decades, both pre-1989 and newer larger firms which survived in the market have become strongly involved in the global value chains of fast fashion. Although based outside global fashion capitals and regions considered central to the development of fashion trends or the manufacturing of clothing, today’s largest Polish fast fashion firms cannot be neutral to global trends of sustainable change sweeping the global North or escape ethical questions linked with offshoring and mass production in Asia. These dilemmas have become especially visible after the Rana Plaza collapse in 2013. Labels of a Polish brand were found in its ruins along with those from other major international retailers which led to growing pressure on them to behave more responsibly. Other ‘external’ inspirations are rising formal (e.g. EU) sustainability requirements and evolving expectations of some consumer segments. Larger Polish firms therefore, both in their promotional and general strategies, often balance between fast and slow fashion. They try to answer to critical voices regarding overconsumption, overproduction or the production of waste due to low quality of clothing. Some of their actions are genuine, others may be considered green washing. Thus, despite being outside of the fashion core, leading large and medium-sized Polish fashion firms follow up-to-date global tendencies with respect to sustainability-oriented changes. Some of the trends visible in Poland include the growing importance of both obligatory and voluntary certification (using certified textiles, the certification of production process, the certification of buildings, participation in international agreements), the introduction of limited collections or parts of collections made of more environmentally friendly textiles, appealing to consumer ethnocentrism by accentuating that the product design takes place in Poland, a certain share of garments are made in Poland or using references and inspirations from Polish or local heritage (e.g. folk art, design from socialist times). CSR efforts may include engagement in and creation of own charitable actions or encouraging the recycling or resale of used clothing. A new phenomenon has been the emergence of born-sustainable fashion brands. A few of these have evolved from micro-enterprises into medium-sized firms emphasising their glocal approach. They design and produce in Poland but stress being in line with best global standards in the sustainable clothing market.