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Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger

Author

Listed:
  • Henrik Kalisch

    (University of Bergen)

  • Francesco Lagona

    (University Roma Tre)

  • Volker Roeber

    (Université de Pau et des Pays de l’Adour
    University of Hawaii at Manoa)

Abstract

It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We conduct a statistical analysis of runs from a nearshore Boussinesq-type model to demonstrate that under certain wave conditions, which a casual observer would perceive as calm, the likelihood of large run-up events is uncharacteristically high. The data computed by the Boussinesq-type model show that sea states with lower overall wave steepness favor higher run-up. Under these wave conditions, more of the available wave energy reaches the shore, since less wave breaking occurs, which can create a false sense of security for beach-goers.

Suggested Citation

  • Henrik Kalisch & Francesco Lagona & Volker Roeber, 2024. "Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger," Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, Springer;International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, vol. 120(3), pages 3105-3125, February.
    • Handle: RePEc:spr:nathaz:v:120:y:2024:i:3:d:10.1007_s11069-023-06319-w
    DOI: 10.1007/s11069-023-06319-w
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