Man-made Cellulosic Textile Fibres: Circular Bioeconomy To Reduce Impacts or Increase Supply?

Cellulosic textile fibres are promoted as a circular and bioeconomy strategy for the textile sector. They are considered an alternative to high dependence on fossil-derived fibres and their synthesizing capacity with fibres from textile waste is promising. This article analyses the drivers of cellulosic textile fibres growth, and their potential to promote circular transformation in the textile sector. A literature review was done to establish the theoretical frame and identify the determining factors behind the increased consumption of cellulose textile fibres, based on various ARIMAX model specifications. The model results suggest that increasing use of cellulosic textile fibres is driven by cotton prices and novel explanatory factors including textile residues, forest plantations and manufacture of paper and cardboard for packaging. The results also highlight the advantages of a comprehensive approach to assessing factors linked to the development of cellulosic textile fibres. We conclude that promoting cellulosic textile fibres could lead to ‘green’ expansion in current production but would be insufficient to bring about a change towards sustainability in the textile sector. To that end, we point out the need to refine some concepts and give greater relevance to aspects such as forestry, the expansion of new facilities and fibre over-production.