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Repenser des modèles d’affaires durables autour de ressources naturelles oubliées : Leçons de la filière chanvre textile

Author

Listed:
  • Julia Parigot
  • Guillaume Carton

    (EM - EMLyon Business School)

Abstract

"L'industrie textile est décriée pour ses pratiques polluantes. Pour lutter contre ce fléau, des entrepreneurs au service de la durabilité cherchent à remplacer la fibre de coton jugée polluante par la fibre de chanvre, jugée plus écologique mais non génératrice de valeur. Pour cela, ils recréent la filière chanvre à usage textile, aujourd'hui quasiment disparue en France. Pour comprendre comment elle se construit, nous étudions comment la coopérative VirgoCoop a réintroduit le chanvre textile en Occitanie. Placée à la périphérie de la filière, la coopérative l'active en cherchant à valoriser la nouvelle ressource naturelle, puis en recréant la filière du chanvre à usage textile en réunissant les acteurs et compétences nécessaires. Nous montrons que cette transformation a des impacts sur les acteurs de la filière qui doivent créer de nouveaux modèles d'affaires durables.""The textile sector is decried for its polluting practices. To fight against this scourge, sustainability entrepreneurs seek to replace cotton fiber, which is considered as polluting, with hemp fiber, which is considered as more ecological but does not generate value. To do this, they are recreating the hemp value chain for textile use, which has almost disappeared in France today. To understand how it is built, we study how the cooperative VirgoCoop has reintroduced hemp textile in Occitanie. Placed at the periphery of the value chain, the cooperative activates it by seeking to valorize the new natural resource, then by recreating the hemp value chain for textile use by bringing together the necessary actors and skills. We show that this transformation has impacts on the actors who must create new sustainable business models."

Suggested Citation

  • Julia Parigot & Guillaume Carton, 2023. "Repenser des modèles d’affaires durables autour de ressources naturelles oubliées : Leçons de la filière chanvre textile," Post-Print hal-04325706, HAL.
    • Handle: RePEc:hal:journl:hal-04325706
    as

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